This is the correct answer - I know because I was there 10000 years ago and had to decide between this and buying a special case from koolance. Amusingly they still sell one for the outside.

They can also be handy if you have to do anything weird like route display cables from the GPU to the motherboard like for a thunderbolt display.

It entirely depends on how much and what you’ll use them for. They’re going to be around $200 USD all in, so if they’re for occasional use probably not. If you’re going to use them a lot like for work or a regular hobby then it’s not a crazy amount to spend. They tend to be more comfortable than flange earplugs, and a little better than foamies, but for me at least I don’t want them in for more than 3 hours.

Etymotic makes a few different ones for general noise, sleeping, music, and they also do ones for their earphones.

Look for a local print or embroidery shop that you can get like work shirts and business cards and whatnot made. Unless you’re really in the middle of nowhere, there’s probably a local print shop that will at least be able to point you in the right direction. If you want a one off instead of a small batch look for a place that offers embroidery - it sounds more expensive but because they can just throw whatever on the machine and do a one off, it’s usually actually less expensive than traditional screen printing. Specifically for hats in not sure if you can get them digitally printed in most smaller local shops.

If you are working with a specific company to produce a personalized / custom product, they will generally have at least one person on staff that can do design, or at least deal with any file conversion and technical stuff like that. They should be able to quote you a price.

If you are working with an artist first, they may have a company they’re familiar with to have the item produced, and if they do, should be able to handle most of it themselves. If they don’t, or you would like it produced somewhere specific, just let the artist know - most places will have all the information the artist will need on their website, or the artist can just get in touch with them directly.

In general, if you’re going to an artist or design shop they should be able to give you some kind of quote with a very rough idea of what you want - especially if they do this professionally, talking to people who don’t have an art background is basically half their job. If you want to be specific it’s much more useful to send something like a mood board or a collage of similar things than a bunch of text. It’s also generally a good idea to be open to their ideas, as they often have experience that may be helpful and will see some problems much quicker than you might.

We use a few Schlage connect zwave deadbolts, and they have been basically rock solid. We’re using them through Smartthings, but home assistant should work just as well. We have hardwired zwave light switches next to all of them, apparently that can help with the reliability since they will act as zwave repeaters in case the lock doesn’t pick up the signal first time - especially for changing the codes.

Are they a perfect lock that no one will be able to pick? Probably not, but it’s a lot faster to just put a brick through your window no matter how good your locks are.

Warning: Papaton is borderline impossible when you combine Bluetooth headphone and controller lag.

Propaganda from who? Big newspaper? Big book publisher? Big stick and wheel?

How do you know without at least 1 wipe?

To be fair there’s a Linux version of the bedrock server. But yeah not having it on the steam deck is pretty annoying.

To be fair I’d call it a wash. Bedrock fixes a lot of weird stuff like quasi connectivity and being able to push things like chests with pistons but also introduces it’s own bugs like weird timing things and randomly taking fall damage. There’s also weird differences like being able to do things with cauldrons or just like minor texture differences that they are slowly bringing into sync.

Because Bedrock runs on phones, tablets, consoles, and a host of other random crap, and does so relatively well. Because of that the install base and playtime especially among younger players is actually massively skewed toward Bedrock being the more used. Add to that rumors that the Java codebase at least was a terrible mess, and the performance issues Java edition still has to this day and it’s no wonder they wanted to do a full rewrite, especially after having to make things like the console editions and even one for the 3DS.

The windows launcher is annoying though.

Yeah newsprint would be a pain in an inkjet depending on exactly what it’s like. It might not even be much thinner, it’s often a little “fluffy” so it can be printed fast.

If you take it in somewhere and get it spiral / coil bound that’s probably your best bet if you don’t want to do a binder. You can do it yourself but you basically need a little desktop machine to do the punching which is annoying unless you’re doing it regularly.

Traditional hardcover probably won’t work for you. That involves printing a bunch of booklets called signatures then sewing them together and it’s a whole thing. Basically there’s a reason well made hardcover books are expensive.

You could do perfect or tape binding pretty easy though. Essentially you glue all the edges to a backing and then wrap a cover around it. It works ok for low usage, but if you want it to lay flat or hold up to abuse you’ll have problems. You can kind of mitigate that by using a gpod spine backing but it’s not a perfect solution. If the copy you have isn’t already laid out for printing it may be worth it to edit it a bit so the contents are farther from the spine if you do that, but it makes printing a bit more complicated.

So, I’ve never pirated a book but I do have some printing and binding knowledge, so some of this might be off base.

If the original book isn’t fully chungus it’s probably printed on a low weight newsprint, a low weight coated paper, or something weird like vellum or scritta. Problem is most of that is going to be specialty and only really available in rolls or large sheets through a distributor.

Most of the thinner stuff you’ll be able to find in sheets has become a thing with fountain pen lovers. Look for Tomoe River or Bank paper. They are in the 50gsm range and should be a bit thinner than normal 75ish gsm copy paper. It’s going to be way more expensive than normal printer paper but it should be thinner. The other issue is actually getting your printer to reliably print on thinner paper. Home printers, especially inkjets, really don’t deal with thin paper particularly well. Lasers usually do better since they tend to use a different paper pickup and path, but they can still have issues.

Your printer should have a thin paper setting to reduce the amount of ink that it uses so you don’t get as much bleed. The other thing you’ll have to look out for is that those papers will take longer to dry than normal paper, so if your printer has a drying time you’ll probably need to set it as high as it will go. You might even want to wait a day before flipping it over for the duplex print. Which you definitely should some that will literally halve the size of the book. It will probably be fine anyway since this is likely a multi day project just given how long it will take to spit 1000 pages out of an inkjet.

Unless you absolutely need to have the whole thing with you all the time, I would consider printing it in volumes. Even if you duplicate sections like an index or glossary or reference section or whatever, you’re still probably going to have a lot less trouble and maybe spend less.

It looks like you have an SFX power supply listed, and from what I’m seeing that case can use a regular ATX size one. Unless there’s a requirement I’m not noticing, you could spend about half as much and get a pretty much equivalent ATX unit, especially if you drop down to 80+ gold from platinum - you probably won’t notice a huge difference unless electricity is extremely expensive where you live.

Personally, I too would look at air coolers instead of an AIO - for the price difference on those two parts you’re starting to get close to doing an older used GPU now instead of later. Asus says 130mm clearance which isn’t enough for to the biggest of tower coolers, but more than enough space for air without any real thermal compromise - especially on AMD. If you have the stock cooler that came with the APU it’s at least worth trying before spending a bunch, you might be surprised - the AMD coolers are pretty ok right now.

If it has an HDMI output without too much junk on it yes. Sometimes the HDMI output will have the same interface that’s on the screen, sometimes it will be clean, and sometimes it shows the interface but you can shut it off so it doesn’t matter. You can usually crop out the interface in OBS but you’ll lose some resolution doing that. You should be able to plug it into a monitor or TV and check fairly easily.

capture card

Hmm I need to do some research. I’m not really sure what these are for or what they do, but I’ll look into it, thanks.

Sorry, probably should have explained. If you have a camera that has an HDMI or other video output they basically convert it to a USB camera.

I’ll look into this as well. Seems like people have had focus issues though, based on reviews I saw.

Most of the models they put out don’t have autofocus at all, you have to physically turn it to focus. Depending on exactly how your setup works that may or may not be viable - overhead cam like for playing magic probably doesn’t move much, but for video conferences where you shift in your chair it might be weird if the room is a bit darker.

If you already have a camera with HDMI output sitting around a capture card can be a great way to get really good image quality for not much money. If 720p is enough I’ve actually had really good success with these incredibly cheap ones: https://youtu.be/daS5RHVAl2U - I’ve even seen them at places like Walmart and Target under the Vivitar brand so they’re readily available.

If you don’t look around locally for used Sony cameras. Because 1080p is only 2 mega pixels and many of the nicer old Sony cameras have clean HDMI output you can get kind of amazing image quality for very cheap. Some newer model mirrorless cameras got updates to run as a webcam directly off the USB port but they’re likely out of your budget and some require software. (Edit: make sure you check if the model you’re looking at has clean HDMI out - some do, some don’t, and some do with some tweaking. This site has a decent bit probably incomplete list: http://wasge.es/clean_output/ )

If you want a more traditional webcam and need autofocus something like the Logitech c920 family is probably your best bet but the constant revisions may have added a software install. Most cameras are including software since realistically they’re all basically the same and most of the “features” are added in the software.

If you don’t need autofocus, there are a number of companies taking Sony “security camera” sensors and slapping them in boxes with screw mount lenses. ELP and Mokose are examples but there are others. With enough light these generally look pretty dang good. If you pick one up and decide later to upgrade, it can probably live mounted up high just for playing magic, especially since there are a few 4k ones that will probably let you read the tiniest of text on the cards.

I have a friend who uses the “beetle mandible” I can confirm that they struggle to pick up anything slightly heavier or less than optimally shaped or slippery.

We should defederate with any server that has less than 7 degrees of separation with Meta. We can call it the Kevin Bacon rule.

As someone who just had to basically retire their surface pro 3, I’ve always felt like they were great devices that really didn’t work well for tech journalists and so they got kind of unfairly punished for doing all the things they were doing for good reasons.

A great example was the power connector - they always got dinged for not having a “standard” one like USB-C, but somehow magsafe returning was amazing, when the surface pro one was already magnetic and it worked incredibly well with the dock.

The keyboards always got dinged since you couldn’t type up the Apple keynote from the audience but in reality no one I know has ever had a problem with “having” to use it on a table. The pen always got dismissed with some scribbles, going, “it’s ok but I’m not an artist” but never actually checking with an artist, and every year it gets “it looks the same but has a new processor” when realistically what the hell are they supposed to change? When they were thick and powerful everyone complained about the thickness, and when they were thin and slower everyone complained about the performance.

Like, there are actual issues - the repairability is garbage (apparently the newer ones are better?) , they’ve had weird hardware issues, the BIOS is useless, and the keyboard really should be included in some way, but everyone I know that has one really likes theirs.